Scorcher Project - Bottom Bracket/Crank

The frame and other parts now powder coated and I'm ready to start reassemble.  First will be working on the bottom bracket and crank.  I will be using the original 1970 Sports bottom bracket.  I cleaned the old grease from the cups and spindle, replaced the 22 (11 each side)  1/4" ball bearings, packed the cups with new grease, then installed and adjusted the spindle play.

The crank is also from the 1970 Sports.  I wanted to retain the Raleigh Huron chain wheel and cranks.  The surface rust was removed then polished and buffed.  Next was to install the crank cotters.  The Sports uses a 9.5 mm cotter.  These once were very common to find, but finding quality cotters is getting more difficult.  I was able to purchase some excellent quality cotters from my LBS, Velo-Classique; however the flat on the cotters would need to be filed to fit the Raleigh cranks.

Cotter before filing

I used a method discovered on the web to position/hold the cotter in the vice for filing.  It uses a magnet and spacers to hold the cotter, so the flat will be held parallel with the vice jaws when filing.

I didn't have a bar magnet so I used the magnet on my digital angle gauge.  The cotter flat is against the magnet.

I used two strips of plastic .030 thick as spacers.

The cotter is positioned in the vice across the spacers, then the vice is tighten to hold the cotter.  The flat of the cotter is held parallel above the vice jaws by the height of the spacers used. 

Ready for filing, remove the spacers and use vice jaws as a guide.  When the file starts to drag on the vice jaws you're done.

Before

Cotter face after filing.

The cotters can now be installed in the crank arms, I use a modified Harbor Freight motorcycle
chain breaker to press cotters into the crank arms.

Here are the bottom bracket and crank installed.  I will be using MKS Sylvan "rat trap" pedals for this project.

This is the bike partially assembled with the hub resting in the dropouts.

Next will be preparing the hub and adjusting the chain line; then wheel building can commence.

Please share your questions, comments, and experiences.

Bob

Putting it Back Together Again

I thought I had some extra tubes so I could get the tires mounted on the new wheels , but either I've used them or misplaced them.  So while I'm waiting on tubes I decided to start some of the reassembly.  I started with the bottom bracket.  When test fitting the gear case, I temporarily installed the original bottom bracket, chain, and cranks.  I cleaned and buffed the chainwheel and cranks, greased everything and installed them permanently.  I used new cotter pins, and replaced the bottom bracket fixed cup which was pitted and rust corroded.  I threaded the new chain through the gear case but did not cut it to length yet.  First I wanted to replace the standard 18T rear sprocket with a larger one to provide a more comfortable overall gear range.  I like the range a 22T sprocket provides with the AW gearing and 48T front chainwheel.  I wasn't sure how large a sprocket I would be able fit within the enclosed gear case.  Have both a 20T and a 22T.  I tried the 22T first and it seemed to have enough clearance, so I measured the chain and removed the excess links.

On the left is the original 18T sprocket, on the right is the 22T replacement



Bottom bracket, cranks, and chain installed, with 22T rear sprocket

Installing the headset was next, I cleaned and buffed the top and bottom cups and fixing nuts.  Re-greased the cups and installed the 50, 5/32" loose ball bearings, 25 in each cup.

Pressing in the top and bottom cups with homemade press

Cups in place

Bottom cup with 25 loose balls

Top cup

The front fork is now installed, just realized I also need to install the lamp bracket.

I wanted to start working on replacing for the original fenders (mudguards).  Half of the original rear fender had been sawed off, and both were in poor general condition.  I have a couple possible options, I can use the fenders from the 1970 Sports that I will be using for the path racer project; however, these are green.  I also have some NOS black Raleigh fenders  but the do not have the fender stays attached.  I could clean up the original front fender,  and just use the rear NOS fender.

  I'm interested in trying to use the NOS fenders because I have several sets of these in various original Raleigh colors, but none have the stays attached.  I have some new Wald fender stays that may work with some modifications, and paint.  So, I'm going with this option first.  Here's a picture of trial fitting of  NOS fenders with out the tires.  Before I make final modifications and drilling of  the stays I want to an get the tires mounted to help establish a proper fender line with the tires.

Rear NOS fender with Wald stays attached

Front NOS fender with stay located under axle nut, need to shorten to attach to the fork eyelet instead.



It's starting to like a bike again, I have not decided about refinishing and painting.  I generally like keeping the original finish on classic bikes, but with a mix of NOS shinny fenders, wire brushed frame, and repo chaincase this one may need some attention.  I'm not going to worry about it right now, I just want to get everything back together and put some miles on it before deciding anything.

Please comment and share your experiences.