The Bridge Rectifier converts the alternating current (AC) supplied by the Dynohub to direct current (DC) which is required to power the LED's. The Bridge Rectifier has 4 leads. The two center leads marked "AC" are used to receive the the AC input from the Dynohub. The two outer leads, "+" and "-" are used to output the converted DC current to the Capacitor.
|Bridge Rectifier 40 Volt, 2 amp, Digi-Key # 641-1213-1-ND|
|Capacitor, 10 volt, 10,000uf, Digi-Key # P10241-ND|
|Circuit Board (plain side), Digi-Key V2018-ND|
|Circuit Board (printed side), component leads are solder on this side. Any leads solder in the same lettered row will be connected electrically.|
This is the circuit board and mounted components.
This is the board after adding the leads for the input from the Dynohub (Blue) and output to the LEDs (Red (+) and Black (-). I also trimmed the board to better fit within the housing and added Velcro to hold the board in place within the housing.
This is the board positioned within the housing.
Next I mounted the LEDs onto the heat sinks. I'm using the same type of LED as the Comrade conversion, they are Luxeon Rebels (neutral white) pre-mounted on a 10mm base. They produce 230 lm @ 700mA. It is much easier soldering the leads to the LED if they are mounted on a base which contains a separate soldering pad for each input. I'm also using 10mm adhesive pads to mount the LED and base to the heat sink. I centered the LED and then marked the holes to drill for the leads that will be connected to the circuit board.
|Front heat sink, LED, and adhesive pads|
|Mounted LED and solder leads|
|Front LED and heat sink mounted in original reflector.|
And the same for the rear LED.
|Rear heat sink and mounted LED|
|Heat sink and LED mounted in original rear bulb housing.|
The next step will be mounting the light housings and running wire from the Dynohub to the circuit board mounted in the front light housing, then running wires from the circuit board to the rear light housing.
Please share your comments and experiences.